Back in those days, clothing for men had become softer and slanted towards women's designs. Now, a few styles are shifting back to the retro-hardy look. This matter was discussed by Edwin van den Hoek during his AW26 season seminar.
Think about working out, having big muscles, tattoos, and living off the wild with survival skills. The return of men's styles is thus zoned in on from a few angles. One big avenue is the manosphere, which many gentlemen follow on the Internet. It is against feminism and states that women have been treated with too much kindness, whereas men have not. While this notion weighs so much on fashion for men, gladsome, fun, and bright styles occasionally emerge here and there. Van den Hoek categorized his predictions into four broad fields.
The word "competitive" shows up in two clear ways, and Van den Hoek was the one who pointed that out. First, designers now race against machines because fresh software lets producers invent faster than ever. As a result, we see styles born from 3D printing or 3D knitting taking center stage.
On the catwalk, helmets, oversized jackets, and tailored biker suits all carried loud F1 nods. Even street labels announced collabs with legendary racing houses, putting their patchwork on everyday wear. Later at FC Hyena in Amsterdam, Van den Hoek turned the talk to the second idea—isolated. Here the story swaps asphalt for backcountry trails as guys unplug and test tougher, lighter gear. The outfits always bristle with pockets, shock cords, and webbing so nothing gets left behind.
Going back to nature, then, means pulling from old materials and looks nature already knows. Take the runways of Dior or Todd Snyder. You find furs, shag textures, and lots of hairy accents splashed about. Camouflage is fresh as well—not just classic army style, but that paint-splash vibe people talk about, too. In recent seasons, no one could look away as designers gushed over long-forgotten fabrics, cut lines, and historical silhouettes.
The phrase "brought back to life" now sums up this mood, almost like a vintage revival show. Let your mind wander to checks, gingham, houndstooth, anything with a boxy story, and to lines, bold and pin-thin. Designers stretch or blur these signatures, pulling them in or out until they feel brand new to the eye.
The suit, once feared lost during lockdown, now glides back to center stage, mostly thanks to younger crowds. It no longer bites at the body. Today it drapes, bends, and dances with a gentle touch. This nostalgia ride continues in the slightly louder dramatic theme. Collars ruffle, scarves loop high, and almost anything that once felt too extra is now front and center. Rich fabrics, busy prints, and layers upon layers all remind us that dressing up can still ask for a bit of theater.
Even though the talk started on a dark note, Van den Hoek couldn't look past the events in the world. There are still many light spots and fun to see in the plans for AW26. Even with the quick rise of the manosphere, Van den Hoek hopes that the soft and woman-like side of being a man won't be lost.